Pau
December 1858. The day after they arrive in Pau, Mary takes to her bed with a bad attack of asthma. Meanwhile, Charlotte and Mr Kerr do some sightseeing and meet the rest of the Scottish gentry who have flocked to Pau.
Dec 1st
Bad day, & cold. Looked in the Château, a charming old building, overlooking the town on one side & the river on the other; quite like an old feudal castle.
2d
Lovely day. Went to a terrace where we saw the beautiful Pyrenees, all white with snow: they looked nearer & higher than I expected. The “Pic du Midide Pau” is a very remarkable mountain, something like a sugar load with a piece cleft out of it at the top. Mary had a wheeze. In the afternoon had a nice long walk with Mr K. through the village of Bezanos. The women look very picturesque with their coloured handkerchiefs on their dark hair; admire also the water jars they carry on their heads; they are classical or eastern-looking. They carry all their burdens on their heads. Dr Taylor was called in to Mary.
December 4th
Mary in bed all day. Mr K. & I had long walk, a little way up one of the côteaux. Very hot. We got an invitation to dinner from Mr Macdonald for Tuesday.
5th Sunday
Went to church in the morning. Heard a good extemporé funeral sermon from Mr Hedges. Communion. Mary only got up to have her bed made.
6th
Mary up for a little. Bad day; got a cold so did not go out.
8th
Walked with Mr K. int the “Parc”. Such a pretty place, rather like private English grounds. It overlooks the river & the long bridge. There is also a fine view of the mountains from it. Mr K. was very glumpy. Mary left her room for the first time.
9th
Charming long walk, to the top of a côteaux where we found a gigantic statue of Napoleon I, made of planks of wood painted. It was unfortunately cloudy, so we could not see the mountains, wh: must be beautiful from there, as one looks directly up the Val d’Olssau.
December 10th
Called on Mrs Macdonald; saw her & Miss Lindsay. The former is rather shy, I think. Afterwards a stupid walk along a straight stupid road.
13th Monday
Left our cards at the Prefecture
14th
Our cards were returned, & with them an invitation to a ball on the 3d January. Had a nice long walk; mountains lovely through the mist. When we got home, Mrs Macdonald called, then Mrs James Christie (Durie) & Miss Johnstone of Aloa. It was dusk, & I cd not see what they were like. Mrs Christie is a bride & great friend of Julia Meiklam.
17th
Thought it our duty to go to the weekly reception at the Prefecture. Awfully formal. Were shown through two handsome rooms then to the one. Mme Pron was sitting opposite the door & a semicircle of ladies on each side. She rose & made a curtsey to me; so did I. She then waved me to a vacant seat beside Mrs Macdonald. Afterwards Mrs Tag__r was announced, then Miss Johnstone _____ spoke to me, & introduced her Sister in law, Mrs Johnstone Gordon, who is mother to the young Mrs Scott of Gala. The marriage was arranged here. Was introduced afterwards to Mrs J.G. & Mrs Taylor. Made our bow, Mme Pron shook hands with me & we left. Walked in the “Parc”
19th Sunday.
Went to church morning & afternoon. Walked between services, in the “Parc”. Met Mr Gordon who seems amusing. Mary has been wheezing – yesterday & to-day.
20th
Mrs Christie called,* & brought her Sister, Miss Pringle, who is quieter, but seems nice, & is pretty. They asked Mr K. & self to a small party on Wednesday. Then Mr Gordon called. Wet day. The latter wants Mr K. & me to go to dinner on Xmas-day. We declined.
22d
Went to the Christies at ½ past 8. Nearly every one in a high dress. Mrs C. received us so prettily & introduced her husband, a tall, large man, with a fair head, looks much older than his little wife. She is a dear little thing; we had a good deal of talk together; she shewed me some of her bridal presents, among others, such a pretty ormola mtach-box, with coloured insects creeping over it, given her by Julia Meiklam, a good friend of hers. She has only been married a few months, & seems full of the morality & dignity of her position. She Sister seems very nice too. Miss Johnstone came & sat down beside me. She gives me the idea of wishing to appear as young as I am, in her dress & everything. She introduced Mr Scholefield to me, & proposed a walk on Friday, that she & I may get better acquainted. She told me she had heard so much of me from Major Scott of Gala! Mrs C. introduced me to Mme Chalot, who teaches her singing, & seems a very nice person. She is German. She accompanied her husband, who plays very well on the violin. Miss Pringle sang, solos, & also choruses with Miss Christie, & the 2 sons of Mr Buscalet, the French protestant clergyman. Mrs Tennant (a bride) also sang. I was introduced to another bride but I did not hear her name. The rooms are very small, but very pretty, & they were so prettily decorated with green, for Xmas. All of a piece, with the dear little bride.
23d
Miss Pringle called to shew us some paper flowers, so beautifully done. Walked in the Parc & met Mr Gordon & Miss Johnstone.
24th
Too wet for our walk. Mrs Christie came, & asked me to go out with her; we walked under the arcades for some time. I like her so very, very much; she seems so good & kind & unselfish. She offered to come & sit with Mary this evening when Mr K. & I were at the Macdonalds. We went at ½ past 7. I knew no one in the room, till Dr & Mrs Taylor came. There were 14 at dinner. Mr Athorp took me in. He is very like the gardener, Cruickshanks. I was not struck; we did not get on well. Talked of little else but foxhunting! His daughter was on his other side; then Mr Kerr, then Mrs Macdonald; then 2, then Dr Taylor. On my side was a nice old French gentleman then Mrs Taylor, whom I do not fancy, then Mr Macdonald After dinner, it was terribly stiff; people sat in a row on one side of the room. I took refuge with Miss Athorp, she being the only young lady; but we could not get on at all; I fancied it was her fault, but it was doubtless my own, for I am so stupid. Then Col: & the Misses Spencer were announced. The young ladies were in the same scrape as myself, & sat silent, opposite. When the gents came in, Mr Macdonald came & spoke to me a little, & won my heart, he looks so nice & good. He asked me to come to the other side of the room & introduced me to Miss Spencer, while her sister was playing. I liked her very much, & the other too; she plays very well. Then I performed a little piece, & the French gentleman listened, then came & spoke to me about Schalhoff, who, it seems, spent several years here for his health, & composed many of his pieces here, & was a great favourite. We then went away.
Notes
Mrs Christie called
Frances, née Pringle. She was the daughter of David Pringle, Esq. of Yair. Her husband was James Christie of Durie (b. 1817). They were married on 3 August 1858. (Rogers, the Revd. Charles (1878) Genealogical Memoirs of the Scottish House of Christie, London: Royal Historical Society)
